Franconia Beer Message Board

Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places)
Posted by Mark Andersen on 2017-10-11 13:20:05
Since Barry took the time to post a nice trip report of his visit to Czechia I figured I'd do the same regarding my visit last week to Franken although I won't go into to much boring detail as most of you know this stuff already.

Most of the trip was based in an around Bamberg where we rented a nice Fewo over behind the market area.  Near the street where Faessla Stub'n is to be more exact.  We like the Fewo.  It was a nice one in a good locaion.

Before going to Bamberg we stopped off in Regensburg for our first night.  I've been meaning to visit the city for a long time and for some reason blew it off each time I considered it.  I'm glad I finally go around to it.  The missus and I really enjoyed our one night there.  I was pleasantly surprised actually.  I found the city quite charming as were the people I encountered there.  We liked both of the brewereis we visited (Kneitinger and Spital) but especially liked Kneitinger.  We got there on a Sunday midday and the place was very full and we could not get a seat so we ordered a beer in the hallway near the entrance (I guess you could almost call it a Schwemme?).  The waitress brought us a beer and she had noticed us walking around earlier to find a table.  So after we had our first beer she asked if we wanted to eat and we said yes so she had us follow here and she found a table for us to sit at.  That was a nice gesture I thought.  The beer and food both excellent IMO and great atmopshere in the place as well.  I even went back later in the evening for a couple more seidla in the hallway.  Anyhow without going on any further about Regensburg I'll just say one night wasn't enough and I'd like to go back.  Dorothy shares that opinion.

We went on from there to Eschawo to meet up with Andy and drink Zoigl.  The ones open were Bahler, Schafferhof, and Beim Gloser.  So two new ones for me.  Schafferhof was our favorite up in Neuhaus on this visit.  Not really much else to say about it.  Most of you know the drill when it comes to Eschawo/Neuhaus.  Although Oberpfalzer Hof seems to be getting more tired and rundown.  I wouldn't be surprised if that place goes belly up or gets sold in the not too distant future.  

On Tuesday we migrated over to Bamberg where the city was bustling due to the holiday.  

As far as Bamberg itself goes we spent more time in Spezial than any other brewery.  It can be a challenge (at least in my experience) to get a seat in the early evening but I found that it thins out nicely after dinner.  Beers were excellent.  My love of Spezial U was renewed.  Went to the Schlenkerla Bockbieranstich on Thursday and it was crowded but not unbearably so and it was easy to get a beer.  The Urbock from the barrel was suberb of course but I expected no less.  Visited Klosterbrau for a seidla as I hear rumor the beers had improved.  I couldn't taste any big improvement.  Braunbier was okay.  I enjoyed it.  Andy had the Schwarzla and he didn't like it and I tried it and agreed.  Visited Abseits for lunch and a Gaenstaller Affumicator.  Keesman for a bock.  Greifenklau for a lager.  Nice session with Jason at Rotenschild drinking beer from the barrel from that nice brewery out in the Steigerwald whos name I will never, ever be able to pronounce as long as I live.

Around Franken outside of Bamberg:

The highlight of the trip was definitely Friday's excursion to Spielbach.  My wife drove us and we picked up Andy along the way and made a stop at Rittmayer in Aisch for lunch and a couple of beers.  It was excellent.  A stop at Zwanzger in Pretzfeld where the beers were, with the possible exception of Knoblach, the most bitter beers I've ever had in Franken.  Then onto get Jason from work and we tried to visit Guttenstetten for their beers on the way but they didn't open until 5pm and we had our sites set on Spielbach by 6pm so we'd have to skip that one.  Consolation was a visit to Kohlenmuehle in Neustadt next just for a beer.  The beer was fine.  A newish, large, brewpub kind of place.  We met Juergen and Elmar in Spielbach and once again it did not fail to dissapoint.  The beer and the atmopshere and the company were just fantastic.  We stayed a good long while (6 seidla for me - maybe more for Juergen?).  Then sitting down in front of the matriach at the "confessional" to pay the bill is beautiful icing on the cake.   

Finally, finally visited Brauerei Zur Sonne in Bischberg.  Yes it is surprising that after 10 years of visiting Bamberg I had not been there yet.  I have had their beer before but never got around to the short trip out to Bischberg before.  Great place.  Really traditional kind of atmopshere with very good beer and food.  Also hit up the keller for their bockbieranstich after dinner.  

Visited Neder and Hebendanz on one of the nights.  I had never been to Hebendanz before.  You know the drill with these places.  Although my guess is that Hebendanz must have migrated upmarket a bit not long ago based on reports I had read about it in the past.  

Made a trip with Jason Saturday out to that place I can't pronounce.  After, let's just say a bus schedule "glitch" and a 4km walk (we were determined) we had a good session there.  Another place worth going out of your way for.

We really just unwound the last couple of days after a pretty torrid pace during the week.  

I'll be back next year.  Most likely in July so I can get back to hiking around the countryside again.
 
 
Followups:
   Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Jürgen Wening on  2017-10-12 01:38:08
     Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Jürgen Wening on  2017-10-12 01:39:44
     Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Mark Andersen on  2017-10-12 03:27:12
       Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by barry on  2017-10-12 03:38:24
         Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Mark Andersen on  2017-10-12 04:04:34
           Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by barry on  2017-10-12 04:46:43
       Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Nick B. on  2017-10-13 01:39:18
             Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Nick B. on  2017-10-13 01:51:03
         Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Mark Andersen on  2017-10-13 03:19:09
               Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by barry on  2017-10-13 03:20:30
           Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Mark Andersen on  2017-10-13 03:25:53
                 Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Jason  on  2017-10-13 03:55:26
             Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Jason  on  2017-10-13 04:16:20
               Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Mark Andersen on  2017-10-13 13:20:47
                 Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by David on  2017-10-13 14:22:28
                   Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Jason on  2017-10-13 14:52:18
                     Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by David on  2017-10-13 16:16:44
       Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Andrew H on  2017-10-15 04:00:57
                   Visit to Franken (and a couple of other places) by Barm on  2017-10-17 06:45:49
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